What’s the difference between medical, nano and cosmetic microneedling?
on March 11, 2025

What’s the difference between medical, nano and cosmetic microneedling?

What Is Cosmetic Microneedling?

Cosmetic microneedling uses fine needles to create micro-channels within the epidermis. This process stimulates the skin’s natural renewal cycle, improving its overall look and condition.
Benefits of cosmetic microneedling include: a more even tone, smoother-looking scars, improved firmness, and brighter, refreshed skin. It’s a safe, effective way to achieve a healthier, more radiant complexion.

How Does Cosmetic Microneedling Differ From Standard Microneedling and Nano-Needling?

Cosmetic microneedling uses thin needles that penetrate only the outer layer of the skin, creating micro-channels that trigger beneficial regeneration processes.

It helps refine discoloration, smooth the appearance of scars, firm the skin, and brighten the complexion.

Cosmetic Microneedling

The main difference between cosmetic microneedling and deeper microneedling is needle depth, which directly affects the skin’s response and how frequently each method can be performed.

During cosmetic microneedling, the needles reach only the epidermis - typically 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm. This gentle stimulation activates the release of growth factors, proteins responsible for cell renewal. These growth factors support improved texture, tone, and overall skin vitality.

The formation of micro-channels encourages communication between skin cells and triggers repair processes. A key effect is the stimulation of fibroblasts - the cells involved in collagen production, which helps maintain a youthful, healthy appearance.

If you’re looking for a safe and effective device for cosmetic microneedling, the Dr. Pen M8 is a top choice, offering impressive results even with a short routine.

Medical Microneedling

tandard or “medical” microneedling involves penetrating both the epidermis and the upper layers of the dermis. Depending on the purpose, needle depth ranges from 0.5 mm up to 3 mm.

Because of this greater depth, medical microneedling creates more intensive micro-channels that stimulate stronger regenerative responses.
Benefits often include: improved firmness and elasticity, smoother texture, reduced appearance of deeper lines, scars, and stretch marks.

Due to deeper penetration, the recovery process is longer. For best results, sessions are commonly spaced every 4–6 weeks.

If you want a more advanced device suited for deeper work at home, the Dr. Pen A6 is a great option.

Nano-Needling

Despite the name, nano-needling doesn’t use metal needles. Instead, it relies on nano-cartridges equipped with microscopic silicone cones. These cones create ultra-fine channels in the very surface of the skin - the stratum corneum.

These channels are invisible to the naked eye but allow skincare ingredients to absorb more effectively.

Nano-needling is ideal for enhancing daily skincare, improving absorption of serums, and addressing surface-level concerns such as dullness, dehydration, or uneven tone.

With nano-cartridges, the Dr. Pen M8 is an excellent choice for boosting hydration and radiance.

Who Can Perform Cosmetic Microneedling?

Cosmetic microneedling can be done both in beauty studios and at home, provided you have the right device. You’ll need a microneedling pen with adjustable depth between 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm or a derma roller.

A derma roller is a beginner-friendly option for getting started.
For more precision and the flexibility to perform nano, cosmetic, or deeper microneedling, a device like the Dr. Pen M8 is a smart investment.

Does Cosmetic Microneedling Work?

Results depend on your skin concerns, your skin’s natural renewal cycle, and the type of microneedling you perform. Visible improvements may require 2 to 10 sessions, as everyone heals at a different pace.

Cosmetic microneedling helps refine the appearance of scars and lines while strengthening the skin’s structure. Concerns such as discoloration, post-acne marks, or sun damage may require multiple sessions.

Deeper issues - like pronounced stretch marks or hair-loss–related concerns - usually respond better to medical microneedling.

How Often Can You Perform Cosmetic Microneedling?

Because cosmetic microneedling targets only the surface layers, the skin recovers quickly.

  • Cosmetic microneedling: every 2 weeks
  • Medical microneedling: every 4–6 weeks
  • Nano-needling: weekly, thanks to minimal penetration

Models like Dr. Pen M8, A6, and M8S offer adjustable depth settings, allowing you to perform nano, cosmetic, and deeper microneedling as needed.

Is Standard Microneedling “Better” Than Cosmetic Microneedling?

Each method is effective when matched to the correct skin concern.

  • Deep acne scars sit in lower layers of the skin → medical microneedling is more suitable
  • Discoloration or surface irregularities → cosmetic microneedling works very well

According to microneedling specialist Dr. Lance Setterfield, the collagen produced by fibroblasts during cosmetic microneedling may be higher-quality, while the collagen stimulated during medical microneedling tends to be produced in larger quantities. Both processes have their advantages.

Your choice should depend on your goals - not on how much collagen is produced.

If you’re unsure which method to choose, you can incorporate both, as long as you observe the recommended intervals.

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